After what appears to have been a premature uncorking of Patriglione 2006, I was reluctant to drink the Graticciaia 2006 now, especially since it is the last of the Salento wines that we brought back this summer. I need not have worried. With so many vowels shoved into its name, it had to be a very complex wine, and it delivered magnificently. Beautiful in appearance and glorious in flavour. We paired it with Roger Vergé’s veal cutlet with anis and garlic; Christmas was never more luscious.This is the holy grail of Salento wines. It is no wonder that most of the production is pre-sold. If you are going to get hooked on something, then forget pharmaceuticals, make it Graticciaia. There is Negroamaro, and there is Negroamaro. This, love, is the latter. Thank you, Luigi.