Tea Jelly for Foie Gras

by Chikashi


Sometimes one keeps doing things out of habit, just because one has always done it, like having goose foie gras on brioche with port wine jelly and a mousse of dried figs, apple, yoghurt and a bit of curry powder.  If the combination sounds a wee bit too much, that is because it is.  It is a receipt given by Hartly Mathis many moons ago.  At about 2,500m elevation, everything tastes divine, especially when one is famished in the mid-afternoon and feeling a bit light headed taking in the incomparable view from Corviglia.  It was one of those moments when Hartly was asked to share the receipt for the mousse and the jelly, and he graciously obliged.

Hartly is long retired and his son Reto now runs Mathis, but we have kept serving foie gras at home the way Hartly had done in years past.  Last year, we brought home an exceptional piece of fresh foie gras and decided to simplify things because we did not want to smother it with Hartley’s powerful concoction.  So, we used a bit of champagne jelly instead.  No port jelly, no mousse.  It was splendid in its simplicity.  However, because of the simplicity, the foie gras itself must be of sublime quality that melts in one’s mouth.

A couple of days ago, we had a good piece of locally produced fresh goose foie gras.  We got a fresh loaf of brioche but did not have any champagne jelly to hand.  Instead, we used a bit of tea jelly made from vanilla flavoured black tea.  Not bad at all.

Serve with a good champagne, preferably in a coupe rather than a flute.